Gold markings on jewellery

The gold markings on jewellery are almost certainly, gold hallmarks. These are legal stamps, applied by an independent tester working at an official assay office, and give key information about any metal pieces of jewellery. Any markings on gold jewellery could be unofficial however, and technically therefore would not be hallmarks. As discussed below, some jewellers may not need to, or choose not to, have their items hallmarked, and stamp the items themselves.

Gold markings on jewelry

Jewelry is the American spelling of jewellery. Gold markings on jewelry are similarly intended to help give an independent, accurate indication of how much gold an item contains. There are different rules depending on the country an item is made in, so it can be worth checking where an item was made to account for any differences in the markings found on them.

These hallmarks are applied because pure gold would be too soft for jewellery/jewelry, and a gold alloy is instead used for the sake of practicality. With gold so valuable however, it is important for buyers to know how much gold is actually used in the item. The gold markings found on jewellery then are in many ways one of the oldest forms of consumer protection.

US jewelry marking

In the US, the proportion of gold is measured in karat units. This is identical to the British carat, which uses proportions of twenty-four parts. In the US, carat is exclusively a measurement of gemstone weight, not gold.

Since 1966 it has been compulsory in the United States to mark gold jewelry with a maker's name. Prior to the early 18th century, gold jewelry marking was uncommon in the US. This was due to difficulties of enforcement in the newly-established nation. In addition to this, much of the new world's gold items were imported from Europe, and were therefore already marked.

As US gold jewelry production developed, jewelers began to stamp their products with their name or initials and a state symbol. In the spirit of free enterprise, many Americans opposed any further government regulation of gold markings, instead preferring to place legal responsibility for gold purity on their jewelers.

Even today, US jewelry is sold on the basis of 'God helps those who help themselves'. It is accepted that gold content may be less than described in cheap goods at the lower end of the market.

Jewelers of America is the foremost independent US assay office. Members may exhibit this sign as proof of gold purity.

However, a system of independent, non-compulsory, assay offices does exist in the US. The foremost of which is 'Jewelers of America.' As proof of gold purity, members of Jewelers of America can mark their jewelry with the letter J or JA.

The Federal Trade Commission further recommends that jewelry should carry a purity mark. These marks should show 24k, 18k, 14k or a minimum of 10k.

Gold markings on jewellery outside of the US

In contrast, in the 'old world' there had been a legal requirement to mark gold and silver since medieval times.

The first markings used to prove the precious metal content are thought to have been used in France, with England following in 1300.

At this time, Edward I instructed 'the Guardians of the Craft' to check and mark gold and silver. This was to ensure silver was at least 92.5% pure silver, or Sterling Silver. The standard for gold was 19.2 carat, which is known as the ‘touch of Paris’.

The work of the Guardians was later transferred to the Goldsmiths' Company. Items were then marked in the Goldsmiths' Hall, which lead to the term 'hallmarking'. Eventually a system of hallmarking pieces of jewellery was established across the UK. This was done by regional assay offices which marked all gold and silver items.

At one time, including Dublin, there were eleven British assay offices. Today there are only four: Birmingham, Edinburgh, London and Sheffield.

Gold ring markings

If you have a gold ring with markings, it should be quite easy to work out its purity, the maker/importer, and where it was assayed. Depending on the age of the item there may be other marks as well, but the three shown below are the three legally required markings to look for.

There were four traditional British standard marks compulsory on jewellery - such as gold rings - weighing over one gram. They were the maker or importer's mark, assay office, proportion of precious metal and a date letter. Today, following the 1973 Hallmarking Act, the date may be omitted from common control marks.

In 1972 the UK signed the International Convention on Hallmarks. As a result, in addition to British traditional marks, international hallmarks are also accepted in the UK and other member countries.

Tiffany and Co. Fifth Avenue New York.

Gold markings on jewelry in the US however only require the maker's mark. Despite this, high-grade items may also show the mark of an independent assay office, US state, and the date. High-class American jewelers, such as Tiffany and Co., even mark their name in full on pieces of jewelry.

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